Woven fabric



June 27, 1939. L J TERAsSE 2,163,769

wovEN FABRIC Filed may 25, 1937 A TTORNE YJ Patented l.lume 27, 1939 g-:PATBNT AGustave Joseph vJean Terrasse, Lyon, France, as# signorto Socit Anonyme Tssages dezSoieries Reunis, Lyon, Rhone, France 2 claims. (o1. 139-383) The production on la woven fabric of'a reversible pattern of large surface composed of two different colors or other characteristics:'necessitates in the method of rpro'di'iction used at vpresent a complicated harnessar'rangement as it involves Va considerable ratio between rthe warp and weft, that is to say, the previous perforation of a very great number of jacquard cards. 1

The present invention relates to a method of weaving which permits of obtaining on a woven fabric having two colors, a patternof large surface with a single harness arrangementdmerely involving an extreme small ratio between the warp and the weft, this pattern being identical on either face of the fabric and distinguishable only7 by the inverting of the colors.

It consists in the new combination of a'harness mounting arranged so that similar lpatterns are formed on both facesof the fabric bythe weft, distributed totwo vgroups of Vhealds and an inversion ef the picking produced at the moment when the colors are changed for the formation of the pattern.A In other words the present invention includes a method of weaving with weft threads of different colors, wherein the healds are arranged in two groups in such a manner as to produce the pattern in the transverse direction and in order to bring about a change in the pattern being woven, the normal sequence of picking is inverted, so that in the parts of the pattern controlled by one group of healds, weft threads that formerly predominated on one face now predominate on the other face, and similarly for the parts of the pattern controlled by the other group of healds.

In order that the invention may be readily understood and carried into effect it will be hereinafter described with reference to the accompanying diagrammatic drawing; given by way of eX- ample, in which a practical form of the invention is illustrated.

Figures 1 and 2 show the two faces of a fabric having a pattern in two colors.

Figures 3 and 4 illustrate the harness arrangement corresponding respectively to the rst and second group of healds taken separately.

Figure 5 shows the harness arrangement combined with a suitable picking.

Figures 6 and 7 show in perspective the path of the threads of the first and the second group of healds respectively for the formation of the pattern in the direction of the warp. 'I'he inversion of the order of the picks forms the pattern in the direction of the weft.

The reversible fabric to be obtained will cornpri'se'two colors, whitefaand blue lr, theblue being represented in the drawingsby hatching. As the fabric is reversible, the white parts a, on the face A shown in Figure 1 will appear in blue on the face` By shown ,in Figure 2, .and inversely.

' For carrying this method of weaving into effect with a viewk to producing a fabric as shown injFigures 1 and 2, it is possible to proceed'bystarting with a harnessmounting arranged so that similar patterns are formed on both sides of the fabric vby the weft (three-thread twill) with a repeat of pattern of 4 Warp threads and 8 weft threads.

The drawingfis effected in the lfollowing manner:

. The white warpr threads composing the bands l, 3,' 5, 'I and 9-are drawnv in straight on a first group'cffour'healds.

I'hose composing the band 2, 4, 6, 8 are drawn in straight-on a second groupv of four healds.

It is obvious that the number of warp threads composing each strip ofr cloth woven will be four warplthreads or a multiple vof four, which vwill obviate interruptions or faults in the weave.

The weave on each series of healds is analysed as is shown in Figures 3 and 4.

The four healds of the first group (Figure 3) are shed so as to produce a three thread twill by the weft with a similar pattern on each face of the fabric, and having a pattern comprising four warps c, d, e, ,f and eight picks g, h, i, y', lc, m, 1L, o consisting, in the present case of two blue picks represented by continuous lines and two white picks represented by broken lines.

The threads of the four warps p, q, 1', s, of the other four healds of the second group are also shed to produce the same pattern, that is to say, a three thread twill with the same pattern on both faces of the fabric, with no reverse face, the ratio or repeat of the pattern of which, being still of four warps and eight picks, is displaced by two picks with respect to that of the four healds of the rst group of healds.

The whole of the weave on the warps of the two series of healds is therefore that shown in Figure 5, the blue and White picks being represented in the same manner as in Figures 3 and 4. f

Vensure the production of the white effects.

being such as to obtain alternately two blue picks together followed by two white picks together.

On the warp threads controlled by the four healds of the second group, the opposite takes place. The blue weft appears on the surface in the face A, while the white weft appears on the surface in the lface B.

The picking taking place in this order along the whole of the weft band Il, the production of the effects D, E, F, G, H, L, M, N, P, proceeding longitudinally from the bottom upwards and transversely from left to right in the design of the face A, Figure l is obtained if, of course, the number of picks is a multiple of eight.

For the weft band I2, by any of the known methods, there is produced an inversion of picking sequence which will take` place this time by two blue picks succeeding two blue picks, but followed by two white picks alternating with two blue picks, and so on.

By this inversion, all the threads relating to the first group of healds in shedding ensure the production on. the face A ofthe blue effects and all the warp threadsrelating to the second group of healds in shedding will, on the other hand, It will therefore follow that the effects Q, R, S, T, U, V, X, Y, Z are produced by a number of picks which is necessarily a multiple of eight'.

For the production of the following weft band I3, the arrangement which has produced the band H is reverted to, while the band I4 is produce in the Vsame way'as the band l2, and so on, the production of the weft bands designated by an even number only dilTering from those designated by an odd number by the inversion of thepicking produced at the moment of the passage from one to the other, that is to say,two blue picks Succeeding two blue picks or two white picks succeeding two white picks before the return of the alternation in pairs of picks of dilerent color.

According tothis method, no surface limitation intervenes either inthe direction of the warp or in the direction of the weft, so that bands of any desired width and length may be made and the length of each color section depends on the frequency of inversion of the weft sets.

All types of bands and borders may thus be formed simply by the use'of either a white warp or a color warp and by the use of two wefts of dilerent color picked according to the most varied combinations. For example, it would be very easy to produce in the middle, repeats of the border so 1' `as to decorate or` embellish the centre of the article.

The perforating of jacquard cards for more than eight different sheds for the harness mounting is nevernecessary in order to produce a repeat of the pattern, whatever the type and dimensions of the article to be produced in the case of the combination in two groups of healds. The only intervening factor is the starting arrangement, which must be a harness mounting so arranged that rthe weft produces a fabric having the samepattern on each face in lcombination with a suitable picking.

The invention is particularly advantageous in .the production of articles such as table linen, for example. f

Having now fully described my invention, I claim: Y

1. A reversible fabric having rectangular pattern effects consisting of a single warp of uniform characteristics and two wefts of dilerent optical characteristics, said fabric being woven in the patterned yareas with successive weft picks of dilerent characteristics and having inversions of the pattern along lines extending transversely of the warp of the fabric at which lines of inversion two successive Vweft picks of the same characteristics are included to form a straight line of junction between the adjoining patterned areas.

2. A reversible patterned fabric according to claim 1 which is woven with a block pattern design.

GUSTAVE JOSEPH JEAN TERRASSE. 

